Reposting this from my shoot with Tessa the other day so the whole set flows as one on my blog.
Gabriel Moginot for Horst’s Second Issue. Remember him from Kate Moss’s April 2012 ed on American Vogue? This corsetier finally had an olympiad all his own in an editorial aptly called ‘55cm’ for Horst’s second issue. Featuring pieces from the menswear collections with his creations, he is the true-blue gender-bending, haute S&M poster child of the century.
Holy wow! I have never seen that top photo before.
Corsets, garter belts, girdles, slips, and stockings…vintage lingerie photographed and transformed into unique works of art by Lillian Bassman.
Lillian Bassman’s lingerie-themed photographs capture the viewer with their stark contrast, graceful lines, and vivid texture. She had the ability to blend commercial and artistic techniques, showcasing the grace in female movement that, she said, “usually passes unnoticed in everyday life”. Most of her work was done during the 1940s-1950s for numerous lingerie ads and Harper’s Bazaar fashion spreads. A female fashion photographer was rare in those days, but this gave Bassman the ability to develop special relationships with her models, putting them at ease in a way that male photographers could not. This trust (she would also send her male technician out of the room for lingerie shots), her preference for “real” locations, natural light, and her signature darkroom manipulations gave her portraits a dreamy, ethereal feel.
Bassman became disillusioned with fashion photography in the late 1960s and left the fashion world behind until the 1990s when she took a renewed interest in her archive. She printed and doctored the images she had loved, but editors had not and transformed them into original works of art. The transformed photographs are poetic, delicate, and they capture the very essence of femininity.